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Colour, texture, structure...

Colour, texture, structure, fit, aesthetic, he pushed the boundaries on everything and it paid off. Frank Sorbier has presented what can only be described as an artistic masterpiece. The overall image of the show was the four elements and the general overtone of nature. Whilst this has been the theme of numerous collections this week, no one has conformed to their aesthetic as much as Sorbier.

The textures we're scorched, the details we're floral, the fits we're varied and the skirt lengths we're suitable. I adored everything about it. Sorbier has really shown what Haute Couture has to be in the 21st Century and, with this collection, has presented himself as the trailblazer of the cause.

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My favourite piece was a golden minidress that had a volcanic effect on the material. This piece for me epitomises what Haute Couture fashion is all about. The layered skirt gave definition and flare, the gradients of the golden colours embellished the bodice perfectly and there was not a simple piece of this overall look out of place. Frank Sorbier, I commend you, I really do.

Elie Saabs collection present the audience with more evidence that Saab knows exactly what he is doing. Theatre National De Chaillot became the home to the dresses any women would feel like a fairytale princess in.

The draping of the dresses allowed fairytale ball-like movement to each models walk which differs greatly to Saabs usual fitted silhouette. The collection was regal and majestic, something any fairytale or real life fashionista Princess would gladly be seen in. Even the shorter dresses maintained their elegance, which is a challenge with a higher skirt.

The floral was definitely evident in the foliage that graced the majority of the designs so to that extent it conformed to a majority of the collections seen this week. However, there is something about a Saab dress that carries with it an aura of empowerment, confidence and regality. The standout dress was a nude foundation, black leaf foliage number that made me immediately want to see the dress on any of the numerous fashionistas I admire. I would expect to see this dress at any galas or balls attended in any fashion-strong city this season.

Jean Paul Gaultier put on a show. That is all that really needs to be said. High fashion meets performance art with every single piece of this collection. There was no overall concept that each dress had to adhere to, it was simply each dress for itself and it worked. Usually I find that type of collection presentation boring and refer to it as a clothes rail show but Jean Paul Gaultier did what he did best.

That being said, there is one criticism that has to be raised and that was the Naomi Campbell dress. Part of me genuinely believed, for an instance, that Campbell had thrown a fit backstage and had entered the runway before her skirt had been fitted as the outfit she marched the runway in looked solely like a bodice.

The standout piece was an opening number, which can only be described as If Elsa went High Fashion. Yes, the dress is white, bridal and the blue tint is solely due to the lighting but there's a part of me that would love a Couture version of the Disney smash with Elsa wearing something along these lines. Commendations again to Jean Paul Gaultier for maintaining the theatricality of Haute Couture.

Today was the day where all the boundaries we're pushed, as if the show scheduler had previewed each collection and save the most daring for the second to last day. Viktor & Rolfs collection was daring to varying results.

The aesthetic was rural and farm-like with each model adorning a wheat woven headpiece that grew as the show went on with the final model appearing to walk beneath a veil of wheat.

Structure is what made this collection and was the greatest strength, in my opinion. The meticulous detail and placement of each dresses construction was defiant and unique with an illusion effect suggest some of the skirt hems being raised to almost above shoulder height. The weakness of the collection was the growing wheat head piece. It distracted too much from the show and obviously the headpiece is never going to be commercially successful so why distract from a colourful collection with it?

The standout piece was a blue, lilac and purple dress that heralded the aforementioned skirt illusion. Replace the flip flops and lose the head piece and this dress is stunning. At any seasonal event this Spring/Summer the wearer would be bound to attract the greatest compliments and certainly the award for most daring fashionista.

Closing the second to last day of Haute Couture fashion week was Valentino. Four words describe this entire collection; Omish and Game of Thrones. The high necks we're matronly and the low necks we're straight out of HBOs fantasy series. I understand that that show is successful but there is no need to attempt to translate that success in to high fashion.

The latter half of the collection was definitely favourable to the beginning with style starting to offset the concept. I love Valentino and I truly do respect the aims Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli had when making this collection. This one just is not for me besides 10 of the last 12 looks to take to the runway.

My choice for standout is a dress that I believe probably photographs horrifically but is stunning in reality, much like Emmy Rossums dress at the SAG Awards this past weekend. The translucent, glitter rainbow number feels like a Princess dress and, considering the fairytale feel of the second to last day, that is what makes it so incredible.

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Posted in Design Post Date 06/07/2018






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